Dovetail, NYC

January 13, 2008

Dovetail opened in late December 2007 and so when Jim, Linda and I went for dinner on January 11, 2008, we became among the first to try Dovetail. We can happily report that there are now three restaurants with first-class food on the Upper West Side. (Picholine and Telepan are the other two.)

We were seated at a table by the kitchen door, but this wasn’t bad as the restaurant is very noisy and it was a quieter spot. The decor is nicely minimal, but it reflects the sound. The service was friendly and efficient. Many of the diners were badly dressed the Friday night we were there; well, it is the Upper West Side. We ordered a bottle of Talley Pinot Noir, which was delicious and went well with everything.

 

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The amuse-gueule was a bit of tuna on a skewer and a spoon of vodka jelly with salmon caviar, capers and sour cream.

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Three pieces of warm, fresh, scrumptious cornbread were put on the table.

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Linda started with the Idaho potato gnocchi, veal short ribs, foie gras butter, prunes. The veal had been braised and shredded off the ribs, making a rich contrast with the light gnocchi.

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Jim’s first course was the Brussels sprouts leaves, pears, serrano ham, cauliflower. He thought that the combination worked well.
 

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Mine was the Pork belly, miitake mushrooms, kale, hen egg. The pork had been nicely seared and caramelized. When I broke open the lightly poached egg, it mingled with the meaty sauce and made the whole dish very rich.

 

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Linda went on to the Grilled venison, chestnuts, cabbage, yams. She said it was tender and delicious.

 

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Jim’s main course was the Pistachio crusted duck, endive, celery root, truffles.

Chunks of celery root had been mixed with the ground leg meat of the duck, creating a rich accompaniment to the sliced breast meat.

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Mine was the Rack and leg of lamb, Indian spices, winter tabouleh, yogurt.

The Indian spices were nicely evident, but not overdone. It was like a good dish at Tabla.

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For dessert I had the Almond soufflé tart; Jim had tea and Linda had a bite of my tart.

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A plate with three mignardises each arrived along with three little plastic containers with these instructions for the following morning:

 “Empty contents into blender with 6 oz. of hot milk or half and half. Enjoy with rose marshmallow.”  

I have not tried it yet and am not sure how to go about it.

Anyway, all of the food was interesting and well done. It was quite rich, which is surprising for a new restaurant nowadays, but it did not seem heavy. The service was friendly, efficient and at the right pace.

 

Downstairs there is a private dining room with glass windows looking into the kitchen.

Dovetail

103 West 77th Street

212.362.3800

(also on Opentable)

The website is undeveloped as of this writing:

www.dovetailnyc.com 

John Fraser
Chef, Proprietor     

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