Telepan, NY

December 14, 2007

Bill Telepan, a chef with an established New York reputation, created a lot of interest when he opened this restaurant two years ago near Lincoln Center. The critics have been nice to Telepan, but have been optimistic about its potential more than its reality. Linda and I went for the first time on December 12, 2007.

There was a warm welcome and we were pleasantly surprised by the well-spaced tables, the low noise level and the mostly well-dressed clientèle. I ordered a glass of grüner veltliner; we studied the menu and the enormous wine list. There is a four course prix-fixe with an appetizer, a “mid-course,” a main course and a dessert for $64, but as we were going to the opera, we only wanted two courses and ordered à la carte. We ordered a bottle of Copain (Anderson Valley) Pinot Noir.

 

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There was a good amuse-gueule of three little items on a board, a piece of white pizza, a salmon tartare and some kind of foamy soup.

 

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Linda started with the FOIE GRAS TORCHON & SEARED FOIE GRAS CLUB; duck prosciutto & apple. It is a “club” because two different preparations of foie gras are layered between pieces of grilled bread. The seared foie gras was particularly flavorful. The chunks of apple in an apple gel went well.

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My first course was the SQUASH TORTELLONI; sage, wild mushrooms & pine nuts. For my taste there was not enough squash or sage and too much salt.

 

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Linda continued with the Roasted Squab; organic white polenta, cipplonie (sic) onion; black kale and port. The squab was tender with a good gamy flavor. The bed of kale was perfectly cooked.

 

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I had the venison special with “organic grits,” brandy marinated cherries, carnival squash and a whole shallot. The grits were sort of gooey and the squash was underdone.

 

 

In general Linda was much happier with her meal than I was. But we will go back as the ambience is very nice and only Picholine has better food close to Lincoln Center.

 

 

And so we went off to hear Roberto Alagna and Anna Netrebko beautifully sing and act in Gounod’s Roméo et Juliette, conducted by Plácido Domingo.

 

www.telepan-ny.com

     

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