Madonnina del Pescatore (the Marches)

October 8, 2007

Lungomare Italia 11, Marzocca di Senigallia, 39071 698267 (between Fano and Ancona)
http://www.madonninadelpescatore.it

(September 27, 2007) Because this is a two-star restaurant in the Michelin Guide we were quite surprised when we found a storefront img_5475-500x265.jpglocation in a nondescript building across from the beach. The surprises continued as we walked inside and were seated in a very casual but trendy environment.There are no black-suited waiters here; the staff is all in white—pants or skirts and knit shirts. There are no fancy flower arrangements, and the décor is anything but traditional. img_5469-250x316.jpgOne wall is all glass looking out to the sea, the floors are orange; and there are columns clad in a metallic gold color.Because it is a two-star restaurant, however, we were here for the tasting menu; and what a treat that was. The chef/owner, Moreno Cedrone, spent a month ten years ago with Ferran Adria, when Adria was still doing that sort of thing. Now Adria only has conferences where he talks for a day.Like Adria, Cedrone, dates each of the 14 dishes on his tasting menu with the year he created it; all that is except the second, Parmesan ice cream which he attributes to Adria.img_5456-500x245.jpgKnowing that we were going to be writing this up, we asked to keep the menu with us while we ate so that we could keep track of the courses. Of course they could do that, but they have an even cuter way–the dishes are listed on a clear film strip which we unrolled as we ate.As one would expect from a disciple of Adria, there were foams and jellies aplenty, the first course had both. The third course was a soft, brata cheese from Puglia with a dollop of caviar.Number four was a seafood salad with lemon air and pieces of very rare lobster and shrimp.img_5454-500x383.jpg Five was baked scallops with fennel and tomato gratinée.With the sixth course, a so-called cauliflower soup, but really a sauce, the grilled cuttlefish heads were quite salty so we realized we had to eat them at the img_5457-500x339.jpgsame time as the cauliflower and then eat the salty anchovy ice cream with the cauliflower but not the cuttlefish with the anchovy ice cream.This being Italy, we then had two pasta courses, one was an arabiatta and the other tortelloni with cheese and raw beef.img_5459-500x376.jpgThe fish course was fried turbot with grilled zucchini and a giardinera sauce. The meat was Iberian pork with fennel and green apple sorbet which was terrific as were all the other dishes.Number 11, the cheese course, was a cheese ice cream with strawberry marmalade.img_5467-500x350.jpgDesserts sound fairly unappetizing on paper, but turned out to be very good. Chocolate with cuttlefish encasing a coconutcenter; Nutella with Szechuan pepper ice cream; crispy celeriac and mozzarella; ginger mousse, tea from Magiare Frere with frothed cream; and, finally, zabbaglioni made at the table and then immersed into a steaming nitrogen container, instantly freezing it to -195C. There were explicit instructions to pop the resulting crunchy meringue before it changed consistency.img_5466-500x336.jpg

To aid in enjoying the mignardises, they laid out a little plastic map at each of our places, or at least a map of the world below the tropic of cancer. Five chocolates were then placed over the country where the chocolate originated—in our case, a green tea from Asia, Hawaii, caffé from who can remember, Tabacco rum and a spiced one from Africa. Another great gimmick like the film.img_5470-500x333.jpg

We drank a Colli di Serrapetroma, Serrarosa 2005 after a glass of a sparkling which they poured and finished with a glass of a red from Ancona, Lacrima di Morro dAlba.

The pricing we thought very fair. Our Creative Tasting Menu was 120 € and the Tradtional Tasting Menu was 90€. Our bottle of white wine was 25€ and our glasses of red were 6€. The sparkling wine, generously poured twice was included.

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